Beyond the Beach: Hidden Gems of the Inner Banks

Columbia, Edenton and Elizabeth City reward daytrippers with waterfront boardwalks, history, shopping and great eats.

Here’s a little secret – just inland from the Outer Banks are some wonderfully cool waterfront towns, perfect for daytrips or quick getaways. While most travelers breeze past them on the way to the beach, those who stop are rewarded with historic downtowns, eclectic shops, great restaurants, art galleries, wildlife and more.

For Outer Banks visitors looking for something different, or locals craving a change of scenery, Columbia, Edenton and Elizabeth City are three Inner Banks gems, all perched along the Albemarle Sound and its rivers.

Columbia: Simple Pleasures on the Scuppernong

Just 45 minutes west of the Outer Banks, Columbia is often dismissed as a speed-trap town – but hit the brakes and you’ll discover quiet charms on the Scuppernong River.

Start at the Scuppernong River Interpretive Boardwalk, a three-quarter-mile loop along the river and through a cypress forest where you might spot turtles, otters or even an alligator. The boardwalk begins at the Tyrrell County Visitors Center and the adjoining Walter B. Jones, Sr. Center for the Sounds, which offers interactive displays about the history, wildlife and management of the nearby Pocosin Lakes National Wildlife Refuge. The gift shop has fun nature-themed souvenirs.

Follow the boardwalk the other way and you’ll go under the bridge into downtown Columbia. Pop into Black Dirt Coffee Shop right along the river for a latte or sandwich with a water view.

Downtown Columbia has a handful of shops worth poking into. Inner Banks Mercantile is a catch-all gift shop with home goods, jewelry, toys, wine and picnic-ready snacks. They also have a coffee and bakery bar. Antique lovers will appreciate Maggie Duke Antiques, packed with early North Carolina furniture, vintage radios, decoys and more.

For a taste of Columbia’s history, visit the Columbia Theater Cultural Resources Center, a restored 1930s movie house now showcasing exhibits on the area’s fishing, farming and forestry past. And don’t miss Pledger Hardware, which smells exactly like your grandfather’s old shop – part nostalgia, part useful treasure trove.

A walk around town will reveal the town’s historic courthouse and a few older homes, including the newly opened Blue Juniper Inn. A surprise find in Columbia is Pocosin Arts School of Fine Craft, a nationally respected center for ceramics, jewelry and metals. Its downtown gallery showcases works by local and visiting artists. If you’re interested in classes at the school, you can find information at the gallery.

When you’re hungry, try Columbia Crossing for classic Southern plates, Stick Burnin BBQ for pulled pork and ribs or Tienda Mexicana Peniel #2 for authentic Mexican food and Mexican popsicles.

If you’ve got more time, head to Pocosin Lakes National Wildlife Refuge. Its Red Wolf Center on Highway 94 is part educational center about the refuge and part red wolf recovery center. Eastern North Carolina is the only place in the world where highly endangered red wolves live. If any red wolves are injured, they are brought to the center for care. You can see a couple of them up close here.

Not far from Columbia in Creswell, Somerset Place at Lake Phelps offers a sobering but important look at plantation life in the 18th and 19th centuries, and nearby Pettigrew State Park has hiking and biking trails around the lake.

Photo: Hunter Rose
 

Columbia Events

34TH ANNUAL SCUPPERNONG RIVER FESTIVAL
October 11, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Downtown Columbia
Facebook: Scuppernong River Festival

COLUMBIA GHOST WALK
October 18, 6 p.m.
Downtown Columbia
tyrrellcountychamber.com

TRICK OR TREAT ON MAIN STREET
October 31, 5 p.m. | Downtown Columbia
tyrrellcountychamber.com

RIVER TOWN CHRISTMAS
December 4 to 6
La Posada: December 4, 6:30 p.m.
Tree Lighting: December 5, 5 to 8 p.m.
All Day Festivities: December 6
tyrrellcountychamber.com
 

Edenton: North Carolina’s Colonial Capital

About an hour inland lies Edenton, North Carolina’s second-oldest town and first colonial capital. With its stately historic homes, brick sidewalks and tree-lined streets, Edenton looks straight out of a bygone era, but it also shines with modern shops, galleries and restaurants.

Begin at the Penelope Barker House, the town’s welcome center and the site of the Edenton Tea Party, an early act of women’s political defiance in 1774. From here, you can hop on the Historic Edenton Trolley Tour for an entertaining overview of the town and its history, or grab a walking map for the Museum Trail, which links 15 sites including the 1767 Chowan County Courthouse, the Roanoke River Lighthouse and St. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1736).

Whether you’re on the trolley, the museum trail or taking your own self-guided tour, you’ll fall in love with Edenton’s many well-kept historic homes, a few of which have been transformed into bed and breakfast inns.

Another highlight is the Harriet Jacobs Tour, which tells the powerful story of the enslaved woman who escaped to become an abolitionist and author. Guided tours require advance reservations, but self-guided options are available too.

Outdoor lovers can rent kayaks at Colonial Park, right in the heart of downtown. The park offers a boardwalk along the river and playground equipment for children. The Roanoke River Lighthouse sits alongside the park, and you can go inside during visiting hours.

Photo: Visit Edenton

Edenton’s downtown is perfect for strolling, shopping and sipping. Boutiques range from beachy-chic clothing at Simply Stated to elegant French-inspired interiors at A Still Life, to carefully curated housewares, jewelry and more at North No. 4. Byrum Hardware Co. is half classic hardware store, half whimsical gift shop, while Surf Wind & Fire pairs outdoor gear with local craft beer. Chowan County Arts Council’s gallery is a great place to check out the local artists’ creations.

When hunger and thirst hit, grab an old-fashioned limeade at Blount’s Mutual Drug Store or pastries at Corner Baking Co. For serious barbecue, Old Colony Smokehouse draws fans from far and wide. On the waterfront is The Herringbone on the Waterfront, housed in a restored 19th-century fishery, offering seafood, wood-fired pizzas and Southern fare. Other options include Waterman’s Grill, 309 Bistro, Downtown Roots, Edenton Coffee House and more – more restaurants than you would expect in a town this size.

For evening fun, check out Edenton Bay Trading Company, equal parts wine lounge and community hub with trivia nights, live music and an in-house patisserie. Or catch a movie at the retro Taylor Theater.

With so much to do, Edenton is more than a day trip – it’s worth planning a weekend, and many visitors do just that!

Photo: Visit Edenton
 

Edenton Events

50TH ANNUAL PEANUT FESTIVAL
October 4 | Various locations
Nut Run 7:30 a.m., Peanut Parade
10 a.m., Battle of the Bands 2 p.m.
visitedenton.com

EDENTON FARMERS MARKET
Saturdays 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.
(10 a.m. to 1 p.m. in January,
February and March),
200 N. Broad Street
edentonfarmersmarket.org

23RD ANNUAL SHRIMP BY THE BAY
October 10, 6:30 to 10:30 p.m.
Chowan County Courthouse Green
edentonchamber.org

BOOGIE ON BROAD
November 7 & April 17, 5 to 10 p.m.
visitedenton.com/soundsofsummer

KICKOFF TO CHRISTMAS
December 6, 4 to 7: 30 p.m.
Downtown Edenton
Tree Lighting 5:30 p.m., Flotilla 6 p.m.
visitedenton.com/edentonchristmas

44TH ANNUAL CHRISTMAS CANDLELIGHT TOUR

December 12 & 13
SOLD OUT for 2025; Buy tickets starting July 2026 for 2026 event

A VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS AT HAYES FARM
December 12 & 13, 12 to 3 p.m.
Hayes Farm
ehcnc.org/events/christmas

CHRISTMAS MAGIC AT THE MARKET
December 13, 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.
200 N. Broad Street
edentonfarmersmarket.org

EASELS IN THE GARDEN
April 17 & 18 | Cupola House
cupolahouse.org

ROCKFISH FESTIVAL
May 2, 12 to 10 p.m.
mainstreetedenton.com
 

Elizabeth City: Harbor Vibes

Northwest of the Outer Banks, just 30 minutes from Edenton, Elizabeth City is the largest town in the region and proudly wears the nickname “Harbor of Hospitality.” With its walkable historic district, revitalized downtown and lively riverfront, it’s a worthy destination for a full day (or more). Elizabeth City is easy to access – about an hour from the northern Outer Banks. On the way there or back, make time to explore the charms of the Northern Outer Banks Mainland, where you’ll find restaurants, farmers markets, a distillery, and winery, antiques shops and more along Highway 168.

Kick things off with coffee – locals swear by Muddy Waters Coffeehouse or Kraken Coffee House, set in a former gas station. Then wander Main Street and the side streets to admire Queen Anne and Colonial Revival homes alongside funky shops and murals.

History buffs should stop at the Museum of the Albemarle, which covers everything from Native American culture to Civil War history. Don’t miss the beautifully restored 1904 shad boat, North Carolina’s official state boat. Nearby, the Episcopal Cemetery holds the graves of unknown Civil War soldiers and former governor J.C.B. Ehringhaus.

Downtown Elizabeth City blends old-school and hip. You might see a cobbler fixing shoes next to a plant boutique or stumble across vinyl at Shut Up and Listen. Arts thrive here too — Arts of the Albemarle fills a three-story building with regional art and theater productions.

When hunger strikes, head to Elizabeth City Pizza for New York-style slices, but save room for dessert from its sister shop, The Sweet Easy for half pound chocolate chip cookies, pastries and macarons.

Beer lovers can’t miss Seven Sounds Brewing, with its riverfront beer garden and rooftop deck, or Ghost Harbor Brewing in lively Pailin’s Alley. For wine and charcuterie, slip into the sophisticated 2 Souls Wine Bar.

Dinner options range from sushi at Toyama to seafood at Cypress Creek Grill to Southern favorites at Hoppin' Johnz New South Cuisine.

Shoppers can browse Bijoux Vibes for chic women’s clothing, Jade Whale for surf-skate apparel with a conservation mission, and Arts of the Albemarle
for a large variety of local artwork.

Elizabeth City combines the friendliness of a small Southern town with the energy of a city on the rise – you’ll want to linger.

Photo: Visit Elizabeth City
 

Elizabeth City Events

FIRST FRIDAY ARTWALK
First Friday of every month, 4 to 7 p.m.
Downtown Elizabeth City
elizabethcitydowntown.com

HISTORIC GHOST WALK
October 10 & 11, 5:30 to 9:30 p.m.
Downtown Elizabeth City
visitelizabethcity.com

RIVER CITY RHYTHM AND BREWS
October 18, 4 to 7 p.m.
Arts of the Albemarle
artsaoa.org

ALBEMARLE CRAFTSMAN’S FAIR
October 24 to 26, 10 a.m.to 5 p.m.
Museum of the Albemarle
albemarlecraftsmansfair.com

CHRISTMAS IN ELIZABETH CITY
November 28 to December 31
Grand Illumination - November 28 | 5:30 p.m.
Carriage Rides – December 5, 7, 13, 20 and 27
Lighted Boat Parade – December 5 | 5:30 p.m.
Holiday Parade – December 6 | 5:30 p.m.
visitelizabethcity.com 

ECSU UNIVERSITY CHOIR WINTER SHOW
December 5, 8 to 10 p.m.
Mickey Burnim Fine Arts Center, ECSU
visitelizabethcity.com

LIGHTS OF THE ALBEMARLE LIGHTED LANTERN PARADE
December 31, 6 to 8 p.m.
Downtown Elizabeth City
visitelizabethcity.com

ARTS OF THE ALBEMARLE BATTLE OF THE BANDS
January 24, 7 to 9 p.m.
Arts of the Albemarle
artsaoa.org/events

COAST GUARD MARATHON
April 10 to 12 | Downtown Elizabeth City
coastguardmarathon.com

N.C. POTATO FESTIVAL
May 15 to 17 | Downtown Elizabeth City
ncpotatofestival.com
 

Photo: Visit Elizabeth City 

Daytripping inland from the Outer Banks is like a little bonus vacation. Columbia’s boardwalk and arts, Edenton’s history and charm and Elizabeth City’s urban-meets-small-town vibe all offer fresh and fun activities for visitors.

The Inner Banks are calling – and they’re closer than you think.