If you’ve ever traveled to the Outer Banks from the west, you’ve passed through Tyrrell County. This rural waterfront county is bordered by the Albemarle Sound and the Alligator River and spans about 600 square miles — nearly a third of it water. Its coastal plains, swamps and wetlands create prime habitat for black bears, red wolves and abundant waterfowl.
Tyrrell County is also the least populous county in North Carolina, home to just 3,245 residents. That (and because a lot of the county is low-lying) means little development, wide-open spaces and a slower pace of life.
The county includes five townships: Columbia, the largest and most visible, along with Alligator, Gum Neck, Scuppernong and South Fork. Agriculture, fishing and hunting, forestry and tourism anchor the local economy.
Photo above: Columbia's boardwalk along the Scuppernong River is a great place to stop and stretch your legs after a long drive.
Photo: Blue Juniper Inn in Downtown Columbia
It’s easy to pass straight through Columbia and Tyrrell County, but it’s well worth the stop. Columbia, a charming waterfront town, makes the perfect base. Visitors are rewarded with a historic boardwalk along the Scuppernong River, a compact downtown, eclectic shops, a world-class arts center, a wildlife museum, inviting restaurants and a sweet small-town inn with wide front porches and shady trees. The vibe feels like stepping back in time to a sweeter, gentler era.
Photo: Black Dirt Coffee Shop & Cafe is situated right along the Scuppernong River.
Start your visit at the Scuppernong River Interpretive Boardwalk, a three-quarter-mile loop that winds along the river and through a cypress forest. Keep an eye out for turtles, otters and even the occasional alligator. The boardwalk begins at the Tyrrell County Visitors Center and the adjoining Walter B. Jones Sr. Center for the Sounds, which features interactive exhibits on the history, wildlife and management of nearby Pocosin Lakes National Wildlife Refuge. The gift shop is stocked with fun, nature-themed souvenirs.
Follow the boardwalk in the opposite direction and you’ll duck under the bridge into downtown Columbia. Right along the river, Black Dirt Coffee Shop & Cafe is a perfect stop for a latte or sandwich with a water view.
Photo: A variety of gifts at Inner Banks Mercantile
Downtown Columbia has a handful of shops worth exploring. Inner Banks Mercantile is a catch-all gift shop offering tasteful home goods, jewelry, toys, wine and picnic-ready snacks, along with a coffee and bakery bar. Antique lovers will enjoy Maggie Duke Antiques, packed with early North Carolina furniture, vintage radios, decoys and more.
For a deeper dive into local history, visit the Columbia Theater Cultural Resources Center, a restored 1930s movie house now featuring exhibits on the area’s fishing, farming and forestry heritage. Don’t miss Pledger Hardware, which is equal parts nostalgia and practical treasure trove.
A walk around town reveals the historic courthouse and several older homes, including the Blue Juniper Inn. One of Columbia’s most unexpected gems is Pocosin Arts School of Fine Craft, a nationally respected center for ceramics, jewelry and metals. Its downtown gallery showcases work by local and visiting artists, with information available on classes, workshops and residencies offered at the school.
Photo: Stick Burnin' BBQ is an eastern North Carolina favorite for barbecue.
For a meal, head to Stick Burnin’ BBQ for pulled pork and ribs, or Tienda Mexicana Peniel #2 for authentic Mexican food. For coffee, snacks, light meals and takeout, Inner Banks Mercantile and Black Dirt Coffee & Cafe have you covered. Just outside town, N-Seine Seafood Market is the go-to spot for fresh, locally harvested seafood.
If you have more time, make your way to Pocosin Lakes National Wildlife Refuge for wildlife and bird viewing, hiking, biking and photography. The Red Wolf Center on Highway 94 serves as both an educational facility and a red wolf recovery center. Eastern North Carolina is the only place in the world where the highly endangered red wolf lives in the wild. Injured wolves are brought here for care, and visitors can see a few up close.
Just 45 minutes from Dare County, Columbia makes an easy day trip or overnight escape. Beyond sightseeing, it’s also a welcoming place for events. In this tight-knit community, locals work hard to make their town feel lively, warm and worth the stop.
Photo: Pocosin Arts School of Fine Craft offers culture and creativity in Columbia.
Events All Year Round in Columbia
April 20 - 5:30 p.m. until sold out
Held at Black Dirt Coffee Shop and Cafe, this event raises money to purchase refurbished laptops for 2026 graduating high school seniors who are residents of Tyrrell County
Local Vendor Market
Saturdays April 25, May 23, July 25, August 22, October 24, November 28 - 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Tyrrell Hall (across from Soundside Sporting Goods on Highway 94. Arts, crafts, food, flowers, plants, produce, this is a perfect stopping place for those coming to or leaving the OBX to stretch your legs and shop. Interested vendors are encouraged to email tyrrellchamber@gmail.com.
Saturday, October 10 - all day
Columbia's favorite festival features a parade, rides, shows and entertainment, music, arts and crafts and food vendors on Main Street in Columbia.
Halloween on Main Street
October 31 - 5 to 8 p.m.
Main Street Columbia is blocked off by local firemen and police to allow a safe walking area for families. Many main street businesses will be open and passing out candy, and there will be a trunk or treat set up along the main street route.
December 3, 4 and 5
The Columbia community shows up for Rivertown Christmas and all its myriad activities. There is a parade, a bazaar, school programs, family-friendly events and so much more.
Photo: Community spirit is contagious at a Rivertown Christmas in Columbia.
About the Author Molly Harrison
Molly Harrison is managing editor at OneBoat, publisher of OuterBanksThisWeek.com. She moved to Nags Head in 1994 and since then has made her living writing articles and creating publications about the people, places and culture of the Outer Banks.
